Elsa Schiaparelli's Fashion Legacy - 'The Lobster Dress'

Coco Chanel
The introduction to androgyny. (1926) 

“Surrealism is destructive, but it destroys only what it considers to be shackles limiting our vision.” 

-Salvador Dali 

Surrealism, defined as the '20th century avant-garde movement in art and literature that sought to release the creative potential of the unconscious mind' plays an important role in the fashion industry today. 

The surrealist movement brought out strong discussions and a world of judgement, conflict and outrage. In 1926, Coco Chanel introduced the garconne look, putting women in mens clothes and going against the orders of society. To some it seemed repulsive and perverse, to others it was a breath of fresh air, a break in fashion, and an introduction to androgyny. 

Not only was surrealism used to shock and surprise, it was also used to amuse and delight: Elsa Schiaparelli stepped into the spotlight of the 1930s with her infamous lobster dress. 

Wallis Simpson photographed by Cecile Beaton
in Elsa Schiaparelli's lobster dress. 

Wallis Simpson was a frequent subject of Cecil Beaton’s photographs during the 1930s. The photo was taken at the Chât

eau de Cande garden, Beaton suggested it to be a romantic shoot.  This is therefore a professional portrait. According to historical context, this infamous silk dress was worn shortly before her  marriage to Edward VIII, this suggests that this image is quite personal.

When I first laid my eyes on this photograph, I had a fairly neutral reaction. I feel that there is a lack of structure within this image, the model’s pose seems awkward and I feel that she is not aware that her photograph is being taken, as she is facing away from the camera. However, the photographer may be trying to capture a more natural setting by not displaying the entire dress, this captures a more mysterious mood as I had to examine the image more closely to see the lobster print on the dress. The lobster print shocks me: I consider it a huge juxtaposition, the setting and design of the dress itself is very elegant, almost romantic-looking but the print adds an aspect of surrealism. According to context, ‘this infamous lobster dress had sexual connotations and his placement of the lobster charged the design with erotic tension’. However, Wallis’s poise or placement is not erotic or provocative in any way. 

The subjected is depicted at a distance, which makes it difficult to see the emotion worn by the model. The subject appears to be in control of the environment as she dominates the frame. I feel that the background is supportive of the subject; she does not create a huge contrast to the setting, but enough to stand out. I feel that she depicts a little sense of loss as she is not holding the bouquet upright but instead having it face downwards, she seems to be looking for some support or recognition that she is doing the right thing.

When creating this image, I feel that the photographer may be trying to manipulate the model depicted, and casting her in a more negative light. As mentioned before the dress contains sexual connotations, and the placement of the lobster may be sensitive to the public. This throws Wallis into a world of judgment and conflict.

The image makes use of the ideas of ‘frivolity’ by combining fashion and art. A beautiful dress and backdrop is captured with a trait of frivolity; showing that fashion does not have to be sensible or necessarily required to be accepted by all.



http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Elsa_Schiaparelli#Lobster_Dress

http://www.vandoak.com/2012/07/19/icons/the-success-of-surrealism-elsa-schiaparellis-fashion-legacy/attachment/lobster-dress5/